25.12.10

Greetings of the season




While the signs of the season are around us here, you are all there. We miss you and hope you have a very Merry Christmas.

22.12.10

Travel reading


I realize that I'm late to this particular party (years late if were going by the release of My Life in France and the movie Julie and Julia - decades late if were going by Child's cookbooks and TV shows of the 70s and 80s), but I've just discovered the wonder who was Julia Child. Of course I was aware of her professionally, but until this weekend I didn't know anything about her personally. Now that I've read My Life in France, I'm so enamored by her. She was feisty and independent, yet warm and inviting. Mostly I'm struck by how she and Paul always made sure to "feather their nest" regardless of where they found themselves, and together created comfortable and warm homes in China, France, Germany, Norway and the US. They were such a great team, so passionate, always working together to find both of their artistic and professional callings.

My friend, Sylvia, lent me this book as we were leaving Seoul to go to the airport. She knew I'd like it as much as she did. Now I miss you even more, Sylvia!

#127 – The Case of the Missing Silk King


Shortly before we left Korea, our friend David lent us the book Jim Thompson: The Unsolved Mystery, which recounts his 1967 disappearance (Thompson's, not David's!). An American expat who lived in Thailand and founded a silk company, Thompson was well-known among expats and locals alike, and wasn’t without enemies. While travelling in Malaysia, he went to the Easter Sunday morning service at All Soul’s Church near Brinchang, then ate lunch with his traveling companions. Deciding to go for a walk while the others went back to their rooms to rest proved a fateful decision – he was never seen or heard from again.

Thompson’s disappearance is remarkable because of its complete lack of evidence. Search parties were immobilized and immediately began combing the area. No traces of him were ever found. Despite one of the most exhaustive investigations in Malaysian history that included interviews with friends, family, suspects, psychics, and witch doctors and inspired two book-length studies of the incident, there is still no adequate resolution.

The lack of evidence stops nobody from speculating, however, and theories abound.

Yesterday, Lee and I went walking on the trails of the Cameron Highlands. There has been much development over the last five decades, and tourism is clearly the dominant industry. Maps are passed out and posted everywhere. The path is well signed, though the maintenance people can’t keep up with the growth of the jungle – in many places the path was overgrown and we had to push our way through. I wouldn’t call it extremely technical or demanding, but it does feel treacherous at times. The daily rainfall makes the rocks and tree roots quite slippery and the path is often narrow with a steep drop-off. It seems entirely possible that if someone slipped and fell into the thick growth, they would go unseen by any search and rescue team.

If you’ll permit me the opportunity to add my opinion to the mix (if Thompson’s cousin in America and people who knew him for about five minutes in Thailand get to offer their two cents, why shouldn’t I?), I’d say he met his end in the jungle that day. Although he was an experienced hiker, his health wasn’t great and even the most qualified trekkers can lose their footing on a slippery path. He didn’t specify exactly where he was going, meaning the search would have had to extend in every direction, making it easy to overlook some places. There has been much speculation that his disappearance was the result of an organized attempt to eliminate him for political or financial reasons. If this were the case, somebody probably would have talked. The case generated enormous publicity, and let’s face it, people don’t have the willpower to keep secrets, especially if there’s a huge reward to come forward.

So there you have it. I’d like to thank my best friends and trusty sidekicks Bess and George, my boyfriend Ned Nickerson for always believing I can solve the crime, and my father for bailing me out whenever the situation becomes dangerous.

20.12.10

Flora





The Cameron Highlands is composed of three small townships, connected by a series of well-marked trails. We stayed in Tanah Rata, and one morning followed "Jungle Walk #4" to the town of Brinchang, about an hour away. Compared to the previous day's slightly harrowing uphill effort, this was very tame, allowing us to stop and smell the flowers.

19.12.10

The art of bread

One of the things that Lee and I most like about Malaysia is breakfast. Sitting at a sidewalk table, drinking coffee and freshly squeezed mango, pineapple or orange juice, eating roti canai and deciding exactly how to wile away our time is the perfect way to begin a day of traveling. Breakfast-wise, the Cameron Highlands does not disappoint, and watching the preparation only adds to the experience.


After a long day of locomotion yesterday, we fortified ourselves for the hike ahead.

And so it begins

Our apartment to Incheon airport: 75 kilometers, 100 minutes, Altay's car

Incheon airport to KLIA: 4608 kilometers, 367 minutes, Boeing 737-300

KLIA to KL Sentral station: 25 kilometres, 30 minutes, Express Bus

KL Sentral station to Tapah Road: 150 kilometres, 120 minutes, train

Tapah Road to Tapah to Tanah Rata: 70 kilometres, 250 minutes, very rickety bus

Tanah Rata to the top of Gunung Beremban: 5 kilometers, 90 minutes, our own steam

And so it ends

A few photos to wrap up almost 50 months in Seoul...

A monument to me.

A monument to Deanna.

Furniture we sold, books we kept.

Packing, storing, and shipping.

Miscellaneous waterfowl on Yangjaecheon.

Everything we'll need for eight months on the road.